Two Moors Way: Exmoor

Morchard Road to Knowstone

Beyond Morchard Road is the village of Morchard Bishop and the halfway mark of the original Two Moors Way. This lovely village boasts a good pub, an excellent village shop, and one of the four Two Moors Way marker stones. From here the route continues through tranquil woodland and arable farmlands toward Witheridge. This peaceful stretch passes farmsteads and the pretty hamlet of Washford Pyne, home to St Peter’s Church. Once a bustling coaching town with four pubs and regular fairs and markets, Witheridge is a little quieter now with just a single pub and two shops.

Leaving Witheridge, the trail becomes quieter still as it crosses Bradford Moor, an area of unimproved pasture rich wildlife with wildflowers. The route then follows quiet lanes for several miles toward the two Knowstone moors, Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), which are now intersected by the North Devon Link Road. The trail passes under this road before reaching the tiny hamlet of Knowstone, where you’ll find a 15th-century church and a pub.

Knowstone to Tarr Steps

Finally, Exmoor is reached, with Peter Randall Page’s sculpture at Badlake Moor Cross facing its twin located 30 miles away near Drewsteignton. As the route ascends Exmoor’s southern slopes, the walk becomes more challenging, but offers rewarding views southward towards Dartmoor. This section is remote, with no facilities along the way.

Although this is the Devon Coast to Coast walk, this stretch of the Two Moors Way crosses into Somerset. From the charming little village of Hawkridge, the trail descends to the famous Tarr Steps, a medieval clapper bridge spanning the River Barle.

Tarr Steps to Simonsbath

For the most part this section follows the scenic River Barle to the 19th-century village of Simonsbath, set in the heart of Exmoor’s former Royal Forest. While the gradients are mostly gentle, the terrain can be more challenging, as the well-trodden riverside path from Tarr Steps to the historic village of Withypool is often wet and muddy, with some uneven patches due to flood damage. At times when the water is particularly high, it may be advisable to divert from the main route for a time and follow the alternative route detailed in your guide book.

Despite the conditions, the walk along the Barle towards Simonsbath is one of the most picturesque sections of the entire route, especially in summer when the area is teeming with wildflowers, butterflies, dragonflies, and damselflies. You may also spot Exmoor ponies grazing on the common above the historic Landacre Bridge, just upriver from Withypool.

Simonsbath to Lynmouth

You’ve reached the final stage of the Two Moors Way … and what a way to finish! Traversing Exmoor’s remotest and wildest country, this is a potentially challenging walk, especially in poor weather. From Simonsbath, the path ascends over rough, boggy terrain towards the source of the River Exe, before crossing the Chains, the highest and most remote part of Exmoor. After navigating more high ground on Cheriton Ridge, the route eases as it follows the Hoar Oak Water.

The final stretch offers stunning views over the dramatic, steep-sided wooded valley of the East Lyn River, with tantalizing glimpses of the coast ahead. A long descent into Lynmouth brings you to a short walk past the harbour, ending at The Esplanade by the Pavilion, and the completion of the Two Moors Way.

Moderate to Challenging

Walking the Two Moors Way brings many rewards. However, it is not without its challenges, especially on the moors and particularly in poor weather. For your safety, and to gain the greatest enjoyment from your walk, it is crucial that you are competent using a map and compass, and that you adhere to the advice in your guidebook.

Seasoned navigators will find the Two Moors Way, even when choosing lengthy days, to be a fairly moderate walk, whereas those less experienced with a map and compass, even with shorter days, will find this a challenging walk.

Terrain: A combination of open moorland, rolling fields, wooded valleys, riverside paths, country lanes, farm tracks and field edges.

What’s it like underfoot? Mid Devon is a patchwork of small fields, narrow hedged lanes and farm tracks. Much easier going than on the moors.

Exmoor’s moorland plateau is smoother and more rounded in comparison with Dartmoor’s harsh granite. In addition to open common you’ll encounter riverside paths, uneven and wet in places, as well as some rough paths and tracks.

How Much Up & Down? Much of the route is a mix of moderate ups and downs. However, there are some sections, especially as the route crosses open moorland on Exmoor, that include more demanding ascents and descents.

The highest point of the Exmoor section of the Two Moors Way is Dure Down, part of The Chains plateau, which reaches an elevation of 480 metres (1,572 feet).

Signposting & Naviagtion: In Mid Devon, the route primarily follows designated rights of way. Some footpath and bridleway signs feature the Two Moors Way symbol, though these vary in age and condition. At other times, you may be following a marked right of way without any indication that it’s part of the Two Moors Way/Devon Coast to Coast route. Fortunately, much of this section is fairly user friendly, and field edges often have a clear, uncultivated strip accommodating walkers.

Signage is even less reliable on the moorland sections. Although specific rights of way are clearly marked on maps, navigating on the ground can be more challenging. Don’t expect consistent waymarking on Exmoor. While you may find occasional signs where a bridleway crosses common land from a road, the open moor generally lacks any sort of signage. Be sure to follow the directions in your guidebook carefully through these unmarked stretches. If bad weather arises and you’re unsure of your navigation skills, you should take the lower level alternatives detailed in your guidebook.

Ultimately, when walking the Two Moors Way it is crucial that you are competent with a map and compass, and you adhere to the advice in your guidebook, including using lower level alternatives in poor weather.

Weather: The southwest benefits from a relatively mild climate with Devon experiencing some of the highest average year-round temperatures in the country. However, Devon’s position leaves it exposed to frequent Atlantic weather systems, driven by prevailing south-westerly winds, which bring heavy rain to the coasts and moorlands. Fingers crossed you will experience warm, dry weather throughout your holiday and enjoy dry paths and tremendous views, but you must be prepared because the weather can change quickly, especially on moorland and over high ground. Good clothing, comfortable footwear and reliable waterproofs are essential. It is important you carry plenty of water on warm days. Pack your floppy hat and sun cream also!

Good accommodation and friendly hosts are an essential part of any holiday. We understand this and go out of our way to find the best. We put a great deal of effort into hand picking our accommodation and matching it to individual customer requirements. As well as visiting the accommodation ourselves, we ask all our customers to complete a short evaluation on each night’s accommodation, which then gives us an insight into the day-to-day operation and lets us spot any potential issues before they become a problem.

We use a variety of accommodation on the Two Moors Way including family run bed and breakfast, village inns and small characterful country hotels. Rooms on the Two Moors Way are a variety of ensuite, private and shared facilities, and it is possible you will experience a mix of each on your holiday.

We are happy to book single rooms on our holidays but cannot normally book more than two for any one group. Single room bookings include a supplement.

Here are some examples of the accommodation we use on the Two Moors Way:

Nestled in the picturesque village of Yealmpton in Devon’s South Hams, the Rose & Crown is a stylish and inviting pub known for its outstanding cuisine, award-winning ales, and comfortable accommodation. Enjoy a cosy atmosphere, complete with snug corners, plush sofas, and a crackling fireplace. Visit their website

The New Inn at Coleford, with its traditional beams and flagstone floors, is a hidden treasure for those seeking refreshment, a hearty meal, or a place to rest. This charming Devon country inn is renowned for its selection of Devon ales, its restaurant, serving some of the finest local cuisine, and of course its warm hospitality. Visit their website

A warm welcome and a complimentary Devon cream tea awaits you at the delightful Rosemary Cottage in the sleepy picturesque village of Knowstone on the edge of Exmoor. Rosemary Cottage is also next to the award winning, Michelin Star, Mason’s Arms, providing an opportunity to experience exceptional local cuisine. Visit their website

Tarr Farm Inn is a charming 17th-century inn nestled in the heart of Exmoor National Park, right beside the historic Tarr Steps on the River Barle. Renowned for its award-winning cuisine, the inn offers a cosy bar where you can enjoy a hearty menu, as well as a more formal restaurant featuring an à la carte selection. Visit their website

General travel information for the Two Moors Way will be in your holiday pack.

Detailed instructions on getting to your first night’s accommodation by car, or on foot from the nearest train or bus station, will also be included in the holiday pack on individual accommodation maps.

To view train times please visit trainline where you can also purchase tickets in advance. For information on bus timetables please visit traveline

Getting to Morchard Road:

By Air: The nearest International Airports to the trail are Bristol and London Heathrow. There are also airports at Exeter and Newquay which are convenient for direct flights from Europe and connecting flights from various UK airports.

By Public Transport: There is a railway station at Morchard Road. Morchard Road station (MRD) is located is on the Tarka Line, which connects to Exeter St David’s, which in turn links to the broader UK rail network including London (Paddington), Birmingham, Leeds and Edinburgh.

By Road: Morchard Road is located on the A377. Leave the M5 at Junction 27 (signposted Tiverton, Barnstaple), and join the A361 North Devon Link Road towards Tiverton. Then take the A396 and A3072 to Crediton. In Crediton, take the A377 northbound to Morchard Road.

Returning from Lynmouth:

By Public Transport: The nearest mainline railway station to Lynmouth is Barnstaple. Barnstaple station (BNP) is located is on the Tarka Line, which connects to Exeter St David’s, which in turn links to the broader UK rail network including London (Paddington), Birmingham, Leeds and Edinburgh. Buses run regularly from Lynmouth to Barnstaple.

By Road: The A39 runs directly through Lynmouth. Leave the M5 motorway at Junction 23 (Bridgewater) and follow signs for the A38 Bridgewater and then the A39 Lynmouth.

Lynmouth

Spend a day exploring the picturesque twin villages of Lynton and Lynmouth, dubbed “England’s Little Switzerland” ever since Robert Southey remarked upon their distinctly Alpine appearance. Ride the Cliff Railway funicular which connects Lynmouth at the foot of the cliffs to Lynton, perched 500 feet above. Visit Watersmeet and indulge in a cream tea (and argue about where the jam goes) in the tea garden before exploring the ancient woodlands in and around one of the country’s deepest river gorges. There are plenty of historic houses and gardens nearby, or just spend a day experiencing the local arts and crafts and a spot of shopping.