Walking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path with my Mum
By Shelley Watson
This year I fancied something different. I have previously walked the Cotswold Way and Dales High Way so this time I was drawn to a walk by the sea. I therefore chose to walk the second half of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path from Marloes to St Dogmaels. After my friend Hana sadly had to drop out due to long covid my mum kindly said she would be keen to join me and within no time it was already time for our trip.
Marloes and Skomer Island
Our first day on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path was booked as a rest day as I wanted to visit the puffins on Skomer Island. A real must do activity! We dropped our car in St Dogmaels at the end of our route and opted to get a taxi to take us to Marloes to begin our rest day. Paul from Jones Coastal Taxis drove us and chatted to us about the area and wildlife.
I’m not normally known for restful days so with that in mind I decided it would be great to walk Marloes Peninsula as well that day. We started the peninsula walk on the south side passing some beautiful beaches, coves and a solitary seal bobbing about in the water. All very tempting to swim in, if we had more time.
After checking in for our boat trip an hour early as requested we had time to head round Haven Point headland at the end of the peninsula and look down at caves and some small sea arches. I love a good cave! It was then time to set off on our boat trip.
The boat trip itself is short only about 15 minutes (so don’t let sea sickness put you off). The water is so clear and we spotted our first compass jellyfish of the holiday bobbing along by the boat. We were also accompanied by Tonto the sea gull who follows Jim and his boat back and forth all day. Tonto is partial to a cube of cheese and we enjoyed the extra company on the crossing.
Before even setting foot on Skomer we were surrounded by whirls of puffins. The sky looked like locusts with hundreds buzzing back and forth with fish for their chicks. Not just in the sky the sea was littered with rafts of them bobbing along. The hype for this island and experience was real.
Getting off the boat we hadn’t even finished walking up the steps before coming within feet of them.
The island itself is a lovely walk. Just over four miles on easy paths through ferns, rocky outcrops and wild flowers. There was no worry about capturing the puffins on camera as they had burrows simply everywhere. In fact making sure you watched every step was important as they’d often totter across the path in and out of them.
Puffins are so attractive and sweet that they definitely won my heart. If that didn’t work on you their slightly quirky legs everywhere coming into land would surely captivate you.
There aren’t just puffins on the islands there is a wealth of other birds including razorbills, shearwater, guillemots and we even saw an owl.
On returning to the mainland we walked the north side of the peninsula back to our lovely and comfortable accommodation in Marloes. What a fantastic start to our holiday and we had already managed to clock up twelve miles on our rest day.
Marloes to Little Haven
Julie & Gwyn our hosts at Foxdale Guest House not only provided us with a great breakfast but some super tips on swim spots for the day ahead.
Today was an easier day of walking from Marloes to Little Haven. The walk started with a visit to the secluded beach of Musselwick Sands. We were lucky to visit during low tide otherwise you wouldn’t be able to get on to the main beach. We spent a bit of time here having a swim and got to have a look in our first cave of the week.
We enjoyed the lower rocky outcrops of the coast as we walked along to St Brides Haven. We were told by our hosts that this use to be an eerie place and some of the local kids avoided it. This is due to it previously being the site of an old ancient burial ground. Over time the burial ground has started to erode into the sea and leg bones had started to be seen protruding from the cliffs. Now excavated it is a popular sheltered and shallow bay for a swim. I took advantage of this and bobbed around in the water.
The coastal path then continued on with the cliffs getting more covered in vegetation and giving us a feel that we had arrived on an island.
Our day finished in the very pretty and quaint Little Haven with plenty of time to put our feet up. Little Haven is nestled into a cove with beautiful coloured houses scattered in tiers across the hillside. Our accommodation was a large traditional manor house, looking down over the village.
Little Haven to Solva
We headed out onto Little Haven Beach at low tide with an ominous sky and as the sea was out we were able to walk along the beach to Broad Haven. Passing another cave to pop into … I did say I love a cave! On reaching the end of Broad Haven beach we climbed up onto the cliffs with the sun starting to break through. We passed our first band of hillside ponies before we started to see the rocky cliffs off Druidstone Beach. On reaching it we headed off the coast path to explore. The map boasts caves and natural arches and we had been told it was a favourite of last night’s host Paul and Jo so I of course wanted to explore. The caves definitely were spectacular though it is off note that they are under an unstable cliff above so maybe worth viewing from a far.
The natural arches were the other side of the beach so we had another lovely walk along the beach. On reaching the other side there were a few more caves but not really anything that stood out as an arch. I didn’t explore these caves as there entrances had pools of water and the cliff above looked even less solid then the previous ones. As we’d already whiled away a chunk of the morning I had a quick dip in the sea before returning to the coast path which is currently alive with wild flowers, heather, birds and butterflies.
Nearing lunch we reached Newgale Beach. A much more touristy beach then Druidstone with an impressive expanse of flat beautiful sand. And you guessed it more caves. The main cave treated me to being able to pop out the other side. An excellent one to explore. Further along the beach a handy driftwood log made for an ideal bench to watch the dogs racing along the expanse. The section surrounding Newgale is where the height for the day takes place.
On climbing up back to the cliffs past Newgale we reached another small bay with Crystal clear water. If we hadn’t just stopped for lunch I’d of been tempted back into the water for my second swim.
As we continued on the path the rocky outcrops became more green and the rock stacks at the edge of each cove more like the beginning of unchartered islands or Jurassic park. On nearing Solva the path began to have more height gain with large steep steps between the covey outcrops. With Solva not far away we came across Porthmynawyd. An absolutely stunning cove with sea caves and arches at the far side. Again we dropped off the path to the pebbled beach and I left mum having a break to swim out to have a look at the sea caves. There was no swell and with the current conditions and tides it was a lovely easy swim. My favourite so far.
We then returned to the coast path and after a climb up from the cove it began to get less undulated. Within a minutes of Solva we came across Gwadn Bay. The sun was out and with the green cladded cove surrounding it, it looked like paradise. I noted it was only a kilometre from our accommodation so would head back after checking in.
One last push up steep steps took us onto the hillside overlooking Solva Marina. What a stunning marina. Dropping down through the trees and archways we reached a hub of activity. Groups kayaking and swimming in the harbour, picnic benches and pub gardens full with people overlooking it. A celebration of ice-cream for a good day done looking out over the water before walking through the very pretty Solva village with colourful buildings and shops full of mementos.
After settling into the accommodation I headed back to Gwadn for a swim to make the most of the glorious evening sunshine before returning to enjoy a very tasty dinner at the Cambrian inn.
Solva to Whitesands Bay
We ate breakfast looking out at sideways heavy rain and hoped that the predicted break in the weather would come as planned. We left with waterproofs on in now only spitting weather and by the time we had walked the short distance to the harbour it had already eased enough to pack them away.
Solva Harbour was at low tide and we walked past what now looked like a boat grave yard before we got to the head of the harbour and the picturesque boats moored up.
We climbed back up to the cliff tops, looking down on the craggy bays. Keeping our eyes peeled for a ship wreck we had been told about during our stay at The Cambrian Inn. Within only a short distance for Solva we saw it. The remains of one of three tug boats wrecked at Aber Long, Solva in 1981.
There is also apparently a plane wreckage protruding from one of the cliffs but with no exact location we didn’t spot this.
The rocky formations seemed very evident today. Showing the slices of the layers now in a complete different angle.
Passing more fell ponies and looking down at the caves and bays we got to Caefai Bay a lovely quiet beach and since we were due a rest we stopped to have a swim in the sea and look at the caves. The cave here had a large rock pool in its opening. The pool looks deceptively shallow. By lucky coincidence I chose to explore this after my swim and was still in my costume as the ankle deep looking water was disguised by sea weed and was actually waist deep.
From here we continued past St Nons Bay and visited St Nons Well which is said to have sprung up during a thunderstorm when St David was born about 500 Ad. The waters reputedly cure infirmities. We also passed St Nons Chapel where St Non gave birth to St David.
Approaching Porth Clais we spot a coasteering group jumping off the rocks below before boxing round the harbour. The harbour has a couple of stone buildings that we had seen previously and now found out where limestone kilns. Ready to load on to ships in the port.
We had been following St Bride’s Bay since day one and we were now reaching the end of the section of this bay. Before turning the corner of this bay we looked back to waive goodbye to Skomer Island and looked ahead at Ramsey Island.
We next followed Ramsey island heading toward St Justinian’s Harbour which is a busy hub of boats. The sun is out and as we gaze across into the expanse of blue water lapping into the bays we were lucky to see some seals popping up every now and then to enjoy the sun then disappearing back down.
Passing St Justinians we round the corner again towards Whitesands Bay, stopping at the smaller Porthselau Beach for a swim.
Tonight’s accommodation is in St David’s and after a supersized ice-cream we jump on the Celtic Coaster bus in to St David’s. After checking in to our comfortable accommodation we headed out to see the very impressive Cathedral and Priest’s Palace.
Whitesands Bay to Abercastle
After leaving the beautiful sandy beaches of Whitesands Bay behind, we felt that the ground ahead of us had a very different feel again. The green and heather clad path skirted round the odd rocky mound/ little peak, while the cliffs looked sheerer sided with a harder looking slate/volcanic type rock. Both of these elements contrasted beautifully with the very open sea as it now no longer looked across at the other side of a bay or across at a nearby Island.
We past more wild ponies this time a whole family with foals which kindly stepped to the side of the path to allow us to continue weaving through the hillside.
As we approached Abbereiddi we could see the more industrial effects of the coast line with a large quarry and blue lagoon famous for its brilliant blue water due to the minerals in it and home to Red Bull Cliff Diving. After passing the very beautiful Traeth Llyfn Beach there were further quarry and ruins leading up to Porthgain. Porthgain’s harbour itself is marked by two huge white stones pillars on the cliffs either side of the entrance. Originally used as markers by boats approaching to collect their cargo of slate, road stones and bricks that were produced here.
Leaving the harbour the cliffs get more feature full with sea stacks, caves and arches. Due to the higher winds today we hadn’t made time for a proper explore of a beach or had a swim yet so when we got to a slightly more sheltered Aber Draw. We headed onto the Stoney beach to explore. A cave caught my eye and I rock hopped across to explore. The cave was long and made for an eerie explore as I disturbed pigeons that flew out at me from the darkness. The other end of the beach had a lovely arch with the sea just starting to lap through it. Sadly a large assortment of jellyfish put me off a swim but it was a lovely explore.
We continued around more fantastic rocky features to the very attractive Abercastle Harbour and the quiet and beautiful village where we will spend the night.
Abercastle to Goodwick
What a day! The forecast had been improving all week and we knew it would now be dry and low wind today but we got glorious sunshine all day too. Anne our host from our lovely accommodation in Abercastle had told us today was her favourite section and I can see why. There was a lot packed in to it!
We left Abercastle early on full stomachs looking down over the harbour which looked beautiful with the water already glistening in the sunlight. Our first section of walk was on easy ground moving round the coast through flatter fields and farmland.
We soon reached a small sheltered bay (Pwllstrodur), followed by two larger sheltered shingled beach bays (Aber Mawr and Aber Bach) that begged to be swum in. I resisted as we had been told by our lovely host Anne about Pwllchrochan Beach slightly further along. On reaching Pwllchrochan I was not disappointed. It is said to be the most striking at low tide and we reached it not too long after high tide and it was still magnificent. The turquoise water was surrounded by imposing high-sided cliffs and to make it more adventurous had a short scramble down with a hand line to reach the water.
After a quick swim (wishing I had more time to stay) we continued on through lush green surroundings and even more rocky outcrops. We were already starting to get the feeling we were abroad when we reached Pwell Deri. A simply striking cove with sheer cliffs, a beautiful beach and clear water and a few seals enjoying the solitude and sun.
On reaching Stumblehead (easily recognisable from a distance by it’s lighthouse) we spotted a few seals sunning themselves out of the water some distance away. Continuing further round we saw more seals (at Pwlloug and Porthsychan). I’ve never heard seals make noise before until today. Two of the seals were not prepared to share their rock with another seal and wanted then to know it!
Pleased we had seen seals today we carried on round the bays knowing that we hadn’t got to the recommended bay for seals in the guidebook yet (Aber Felin). At the edge of Aber Felin is the Carregwastad Point … a stone marking the last invasion of Britain in 1797.
Looking down from here were more seals … lots some in the water but most basking on the rock
We then finished our walk with lots of small inclines to make sure our legs were still awake and arrived in the vast Goodwick Harbour.
Goodwick to Newport
Another unexpected sunny day today!
We left the vast harbour of Goodwick and exchanged it quickly for the smaller but picturesque harbour of Fishguard. From here we climbed back up to the cliffs of the coast at Castle Point where the remains of Fishguard Fort resides. Then passed a number of beautiful bays, sea stacks and beach’s.
Aber Bach was particularly pretty with a second part slightly round to the side with more sea stacks. Not much further round the corner was Pwll Gwylog another secluded stunning little bay. As the beaches were catching the wind I regrettably held back on a swim in both and instead had a swim in the next big beach Pwllgwaelod. Although a lovely sandy beach not as picturesque as the first. This beach seemed to be a jelly fish trap mainly moon and some small blue ones which I believe to be non-stingy but when a couple of large compass jellyfish started to surround me I decided it was time to head out.
From here we headed up Dinas Head a lovely bit of headland. Metres from the highpoint trig in the field next to us we spotted a badger snuffling for food. After consulting a badger group I learnt that they very rarely come out in the sunshine for food but it does happen with no cause for concern.
After enjoying watching the badger before it disappeared out of sight we took in the summit view. The bracken covered return path from Dinas head felt like we had been transported abroad once again.
Cwm yr Eglwys greeted us at the end of the Dinas Headland. The water like a tropical island and sheltered from the prevailing wind made it feel like paradise. Plus no jellyfish this time. I could have stayed in the warm water all day.
Continuing on we enjoyed a number more high sided sheer cliffs, bays and views over the grand expanse of Newport Beach. Finally arriving at the beach at low tide. An estuary runs from the side of the beach to feed the harbour behind. Deceptively deep the river makes for a great swim if you fancied a more relaxed swim to the sea.
Three beautiful swims today and regret that I didn’t have more. Someone has remarked on my coast updates saying am I walking it or swimming it. That isn’t a bad idea I must come back and swim every bay!
Newport to St Dogmaels
We decided to leave early from Newport to make the most of our last day. The heavy rain forecast never materialised and instead we had wall to wall sunshine. The guidebook had warned us this was the toughest day and we soon hit a long hill of steps. A lot of the day was up high looking down over steep sided cliffs and the route included the high point of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path itself.
Some more stunning bays, and rock layers throughout the walk but about halfway along the route we also got to admire the witches cauldron. A sea cave which roof had collapsed in had now left a huge basin with turquoise water along with an arch/land bridge dividing it from the sea. A very lovely section to walk across.
Just a little further was Ceibwr Bay a lovely place for a swim if other people are also swim/hike minded. Apparently later in the summer this bay is often home to a bull seal who doesn’t always want to share but as it’s still early in the season and he was nowhere in sight I enjoyed a long bob around in the calm water.
After my swim we were about half way through the distance and height gain so more small climbs took place which added to the enjoyment and vistas. In particular the high sided cliffs looking over Traeth Godir-côch with obvious lava fold lines positioned by a beautiful pebbled beach was a joy to look down upon. We stood above watching the seals trying to get ashore amongst the swell.
After this high point we turned the corner to look over the beautiful expanse of Poppit Sands arriving early afternoon to enjoy an ice-cream on the beach followed by a beach swim and jelly fish spotting. Lots of large compass jelly fish around again! The beach is a great one to swim in as it’s so flat. Once you get deep enough so you can swim you feel like you could swim for miles and still touch the floor taking out the worry of being swept away.
Poppit Sands is also another beach with an estuary and it was a fabulous evening watching the estuary fill and boats begin to float as we celebrated over our final evening meal.
So just like that it was over. What an amazing day to finish on and what an incredible week!
This route really was fabulous. So much to see in a week that we feel we must have been away for a month. Beaches, coves, caves, arches, land bridges, hills, countryside, quaint villages, Pembrokeshire is a truly special place and I can’t wait to return to complete the coastal path as well as redoing this northern section. A bucket list long distance path to be sure and it was great that I got to enjoy this with my mum too!
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