Notes from the Cornwall Coast
By Mark Wright
Having walked sections of the Thames Path on my two previous familiarisation trips, I thought I’d try something a little different this year and headed for the South West Coast Path. I chose to walk the 65 miles from St Ives to Lizard on the Cornwall coast.
Once again I was accompanied by my daughter Ebony.
St Ives
We were lucky to be able to spend a bit of time in St Ives before starting our walk and I’d recommend you do the same. It takes some time to get to St Ives and my feeling is if you were to arrive, realistically late afternoon, and set off on your walk the following morning, you’d leave with a sense of regret. Renowned for its stunning beaches, vibrant art scene, and rich cultural heritage, St Ives has long been a favourite destination for artists, surfers, and tourists alike. St Ives deserves to be explored, and it deserves at least a full day to do so.
The town is home to several beautiful beaches, each offering its own unique charm. Porthmeor Beach is perhaps the most famous, known for its golden sands and excellent surf, it’s a real hotspot for adventurers. Porthminster Beach is another gem, offering more sheltered waters, ideal for families and swimmers, with views of Godrevy Lighthouse in the distance, inspiration for Virginia Woolf’s famous novel ‘To the Lighthouse’. Harbour Beach, as the name suggests, is situated right by the harbour, offering a more intimate, bustling atmosphere, while Porthgwidden Beach is a smaller, more secluded spot, perfect for those seeking tranquility.
St Ives’ artistic heritage is legendary. The town has long been a hub for artists, drawn by the exceptional quality of light and natural beauty. This legacy is celebrated in the Tate St Ives, which features contemporary art exhibitions, and the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden, dedicated to one of the most significant sculptors of the 20th century who lived and worked in the town. The Leach Pottery, founded by Bernard Leach, is another cultural highlight, showcasing the development of studio pottery.
St Ives perfectly blends natural beauty with cultural richness. Beyond the beaches and galleries, St Ives offers charming cobbled streets filled with independent shops, studios, cafes, and restaurants. Attractions such as the St Ives Museum provide insights into the town’s maritime history, while The Island, not a true island, but a headland, offers panoramic views that capture the very essence of St Ives. This is a must do short walk. Visit the chapel dedicated to St Nicholas, patron saint of sailors.
The Route
St Ives to Pendeen
Many people, guidebook writers included, will tell you the thirteen miles from St Ives to Pendeen are the toughest of the entire path. This may be true, but that in itself doesn’t really qualify them as particularly challenging in the general scheme of country walking. In fact anyone who has ever wandered through the Yorkshire Dales or scaled some of the lower tops in the Lakes will quite literally take this section in their stride. If in doubt however, simply split it over two days. One thing is certain, it is an incredibly beautiful stretch of coast.
Take your time. Look around. There are stone circles and Iron Age promontory hill forts worthy of exploration. Rest a while above The Carracks, a group of small rocky inshore Islands where grey seals often haul out on the rocks.
Walkers splitting this section over two days will break from the trail and head to the picturesque village of Zennor, but even those destined for Pendeen should consider the short detour. Take a look in the church with its Mermaid’s Chair, a medieval bench featuring a carving of a mermaid. The other attraction in Zennor is the hugely popular Tinners Arms pub. A great place for a spot of lunch and a traditional ale or local cider. We chose to bypass the Tinners in favour of the iconic lichen coloured Gurnard’s Head Hotel, reached by following a short stretch of winding road before taking a well-defined path through a meadow. A well known sparkling soft drink with plant extracts was enjoyed.
Rejoining the trail we immediately detoured again, this time to explore what is undoubtedly the highlight of this section, the great rocky promontory of Gurnards Head, stretching 350 yards out into the sea. If you only leave the trail once during your time on the Cornwall coast, then do it here.
Pendeen to Porthcurno
It’s a fairly easy fifteen miles from Pendeen to Porthcurno. Cape Cornwall at four miles, and Sennen Cove five miles later, punctuate the day.
Those with an interest in industrial heritage will find the first few miles fascinating. Leaving Pendeen, and just off the trail, are the remains of Geever Tin Mine, now a museum. This entire stretch of path to Cape Cornwall is scattered with tin mining ruins. The Crowns Mines at Botallack are popular with photographers and is perhaps one of the most captured views on the Cornwall coast.
Sennen Cove is the jewel on this stretch of coast and the approach through the dunes at Whitesand Bay is really quite delightful. Take time to visit the Roundhouse and Capstan Gallery by the harbour slipway. For those enjoying shorter days, Sennen will be an overnight stop and a wonderful one too.
The windswept heath between Sennen and Porthcurno is simply magnificent, providing that is, you keep your head down and march quickly on past the theme park that is Land’s End. Thankfully, it’s only ten minutes out of your day and the horror is soon forgotten as you begin to marvel at dramatic rock formations at every turn.
Porthcurno to Penzance
Porthcurno to Penzance is an idyllic walk for the most part. Eleven miles in total. The first seven, to Mousehole, with its picturesque harbour, are truly stunning. Absolutely breathtaking in places. The final four miles into Penzance are pretty enough, but it’s all on tarmac. There’s still plenty of interest along the way, the town of Newlyn on the outskirts of Penzance in particular, but if the many ups and downs and optional detours on the way to Mousehole have taken it of you, and urban walking is not your thing, you may decide you’ve had the best of the day and choose to take the bus along the front to Penzance. You’ll see everything you would have had you remained on foot.
By far the most difficult part of this section is leaving Porthcurno itself. Gorgeous soft white sands and turquoise water, flanked by rugged cliffs makes Porthcurno Beach one of the most beautiful settings in Cornwall. We just did not want to leave. So what did we do? Well, we compromised. We spent the morning lying on the sand sunbathing, followed by a lovely lunch at the beach cafe. Only then, did we begin the walk.
No sooner were we on our way and it was time for a detour. Sheltering Porthcurno is a rocky promontory, Treryn Dinas, similar in fact to Gurnard’s Head which we’d enjoyed earlier in the week. Would we ever begin properly making our way to Penzance?
For a time the trail follows a tunnel of dense undergrowth of scrub, gorse and long grass, and can feel like a bit of a battle at times, however our luck was in as we arrived upon two men doing a splendid job in clearing the coastal path with petrol strimmers. We were soon striding out unhindered.
The next few miles are blissful and not even the rough boulder beach at St Loy’s Cove can lessen the joy of walking this stretch of the coastal path. Five miles in and you arrive at the peaceful setting of Lamorna Cove, popular with artists, and again, a difficult place to leave.
The pine forest at Kemyel Crease Nature Reserve adds a little variation to the day and in no time at all you find yourself walking downhill into Mousehole, described by Dylan Thomas as ‘the loveliest village in England’. The harbour setting is exquisite, and in late afternoon was an absolute suntrap. I don’t mind confessing that both ice cream and a sparkling soft drink with plant extracts was enjoyed. Not for the first time that day, we really didn’t want to move, but eventually we picked ourselves up and made the final push into Penzance.
Penzance to Porthleven
Penzance to Porthleven is a thirteen mile leg, that once it properly gets going, is a really interesting day. Just as the walk into Penzance was on tarmac, then so the walk out of it is too. In fact the first three miles to the pretty town of Marazion is on cycle path, set between the beach and the railway line, but it’s nice enough. If you haven’t planned a trip over, than at least take a little time at Marazion to savour the views out to the island of St Michael’s Mount.
Another day and another rocky promontory to explore. This time Cudden Point just ahead of the famous Prussia Cove with Bessy’s Cove, a real smugglers landing place, just beneath.
Idyllic clifftop walking leads to the holiday resort of Praa Sands with its long golden beach. A good place for refreshments ahead of the final four or five miles round the cliffs, some of which are subsiding, to Porthleven.
Porthleven is a picturesque setting centred around the harbour which was built using prisoners from the Napoleonic wars. This stretch of coast is subject to ferocious storms, often sending massive waves crashing over the harbour wall. You may in fact have seen the famous images of huge waves breaking around Porthleven Pier Church?
Porthleven to Lizard
The final leg of our Cornwall adventure was a thirteen mile stretch from Porthleven to Lizard with the impressive Mullion Cove at the mid-point. Right from the off this is a really enjoyable walk. The wide gravel track above the sweeping Western Tye beach allows you to stride out at a good pace.
Then comes Loe Bar, a shingle bank separating the sea from the fresh water lagoon, The Loe. There are a number of delightful sandy coves along this stretch, some of which are serviced by kiosks catering for the many day trippers who come here. Dollar Cove, Poldhu Cove and Polurrian Cove are each worthy of taking a little time to sit and soak up the warmth of the sun, the salty sea air and the sound of the waves.
Further on, nestled between steep cliffs is Mullion Cove, perhaps the epitome of the quintessential Cornish harbour. Sheltered by the harbour walls, this is an idyllic setting for a lunch break.
Kynance Cove is a spectacular location that attracts many visitors. Although there are still several miles to go to reach Lizard, Kynance Cove has a celebratory feel to it and we waded about in the cove for a time before enjoying a spot of sunbathing.
The final push to Lizard over the windswept heath served up a final helping of the sublime scenery we’d come to enjoy over the course of the past five days.
The Food
Almost as important as stunning views is of course delicious food and there was no shortage of that on the Cornwall coast, which is just as well as I have a very hungry daughter. A number of places are worthy of special mention, however, despite loving our food I have little appetite for sharing instagrammable shots of our meals. Photographs, never quite do justice I feel.
Lunches first. The Slipway in St Ives make up enormous sandwiches on super tasty bread with a more than generous filling of the finest ingredients. We had ours on the headland near Zennor. They were the size of paperback books! This was no meal deal sandwich, this was an absolute feast. We’d spent a few days in St Ives ahead of our walk and had enjoyed their breakfast rolls and their great tasting coffee too. They also offer a good selection of cake.
We enjoyed a couple of sit down lunches along the trail. The Sennen Cove Cafe served up scrumptious toasted sandwiches and warm-us-up coffee whilst providing some much appreciated shelter just as the skies darkened and a cold wind blew through. A few days later, after a morning sunbathing, we sat outside the Porthcurno Beach Cafe with tasty baguettes and soft drinks. The perfect fuel for our walk to Penzance.
Many establishments on the Cornwall coast claim to be the home of the best Cornish Pasty, but we really did strike gold with Philps in Marazion. A world apart from anything we’ve had before. It’s not often Ebony and I are quiet, however, on a large rock looking over to St Michael’s Mount, we sat in silence eating our 400g pasties blissfully content with the world. They’ve been making pasties since 1958 and they’re freshly baked every morning. Philps also do great sandwiches and cake, as we discovered from their Porthleven shop the following day. I recommend the Tiffen.
Evening meals are an integral part of our walking holidays together. Ebony and I can spend many, many miles striding out planning and anticipating that evening’s culinary delights.
Talay Thai Kitchen in St Ives is a must. A great atmosphere, stylish decor, with an elevated view over the harbour. Their Red Thai Curry is heavenly.
Our second Thai experience was equally as mouthwatering, but in a much more traditional environment. Thai Moon in Penzance is run by husband and wife team Irivine and Saowalak Moon. Irvine takes care of front of house while Saowalak (Aoy for Short) is the chef, and an incredibly talented one too. Irvine is a masterclass in charm and he’s incredibly generous with his time, probably to the annoyance of his ever cheerful waiting team, but he’s such a wonderful storyteller. We left feeling we’d been hosted by Bill Nighy.
We spent two nights in Penzance and we’re so glad we did as we were lucky enough to visit The Bridge, an intimate Italian Brasserie and Bar in nearby Newlyn, just a twenty minute or so walk along the front. Again the food was simply devine and again we were charmed beyond belief. Your host, Fabio, is nothing short of magnificent. An incredibly animated man who can simultaneously hold court over a busy restaurant, while, with subtle personal touches, make you individually feel like you’re his number one priority. Great food and a genius host!
Certainly the most vibrant place we ate was Cantina in Porthleven, described as snappy street food for sea lizards. The place was absolutely buzzing. I’m quite sure in the wrong hands it could have descended into chaos, but this was a well oiled machine. Food to die for in a fun and fast paced environment and a team that were nothing short of joyful.
Sometimes in life you stumble upon somewhere and you are so glad you did. In the village of Lizard we spotted Chimichangas Tex Mex Street Food. I must confess I tend to turn and run when I see the words Tex Mex, it just conjures up the image ‘Smokey’ in my mind. Anyway, something inside said give it go, and it was the best decision of the day. Chimichangas started out in 2020 as a street food trailer just a few miles away and became a regular favourite with both locals and visitors. Now in 2024 it’s an amazing restaurant, boasting good vibes, great music and under the direction of Guatemalan chef, Marynes, the tastiest Tex Mex and authentic Latin street food. The front of house team were incredibly warm and very patient as they cheerful answered our many “What is?” questions. The playlist was amazing too and whoever made it is clearly a fan of John Fogerty. Great choice!
Our Amazing Hosts and the Advantage of a Two Night Stay
Each an every one of our hosts were warm, inviting, helpful and full of good humour. Just a note on the larger establishments first of all. You’d think you could be overlooked while staying in a busy pub for one night on a hugely popular stretch of coastline, but it just wasn’t the case. The care and attention extended to us was faultless. Special mention to Marcus in Pendeen whose first reaction on our arrival after a very warm day was to check on our wellbeing and ensure we got plenty of water inside us before anything else.
We stayed for two nights with Fran & Stuart in their delightful Penzance guesthouse and they were lovely hosts ensuring we had everything we wished for and were generous in sharing their incredible local knowledge. They were very familiar with both Irvine and Fabio and were in agreement with us about just how wonderful those two personalities are.
The great thing about the two night stay was it meant we weren’t restricted to a check in time on the second evening. As a result we were able to flex our day to better suit our needs. As we don’t have any accommodation in Porthcurno we’d been transferred, at an agreed pick up time, to Penzance for the evening. Once returned to Porthcurno the following morning, and with no check-in time back in Penzance to adhere to, we spent the morning sunbathing on the incredible Porthcurno Beach before enjoying a delicious lunch at the beach cafe, ahead of commencing our walk along the coast free from any check-in time constraint.
We were delighted to be able to stay with Susannah and Geoff in their beautiful and luxurious detached home in Lizard. I’d approached Susannah to work with us a few years previously and I’d always hoped to have the opportunity to visit. We enjoyed a really comfortable stay in a sublime setting, and it was so, so nice chatting with Susannah and Geoff in person.
Not so much a host, but definitely in need of a mention is Doug who kindly transferred us to St Ives from Lizrad, at the end of our holiday. Such an kind and interesting man. We thoroughly enjoyed the journey back with him. Do check out Meneage Tours, these bespoke private tours operated by Doug these can be based on popular television shows such as Poldark or Doc Martin, or even around your family ancestry.
Enjoying Every Moment Together, in the Moment
One individual more than any other deserves special recognition for shaping our experience on the Cornwall coast. Ben Tredinnick is a quietly spoken, unassuming kind of guy. He’s also incredibly talented, and without imposing himself, challenges you to think about the world around you. Ben is a photographer and co-owner of Mordros Photography Gallery and Yoga Studio.
On our first afternoon in St Ives we chanced upon Ben’s gallery and Ebony and I were immediately struck, both by Ben’s incredible photography and his engaging personality. We got a sense here was a man truly grateful for where he has found himself in life.
You’ll have to forgive the strange effect on this photograph. Ebony took the shot on her early 1960’s Kodak Retinette 1b, and whether it got confused with the lighting in Ben’s gallery or there was an issue with the film we don’t know, but there you go, the joys of old cameras and film photography, and it’s what happened at the time and rather fits in with this tale. It would seem false to use an alternative image.
Anyway, in essence, it’s simple enough, Ben regularly, early in the morning and at the dimming of the day, takes himself down to the shore and into the water with his camera and captures the most amazing images. That in itself is pretty impressive, but here’s the great thing, no matter how good, he only ever prints and sells five copies of any given image. The original is then deleted. He doesn’t even keep it for himself. It’s gone forever, just like the morning tide from where it came. And why? Well, he explains there’s something nice about owning an image and having the knowledge there’s only another four out there in the world. But also it continually challenges Ben, there’s always the need to get out there, time and time again, and capture the tide. I liken him to a fisherman, only he catches moments rather than fish.
I’m not a great believer in labels and terms such as mindfulness and the like, however as we walked the Cornwall coast together, inspired by Ben’s approach to his photography, we were acutely aware that the views, the warmth of the sun, the salty sea air around us, our conversations, the food we ate, even our engagement with the charming Irvine, all these shared moments, were to be savoured and appreciated there and then, they wouldn’t ever be replicated, and we made sure we enjoyed every moment together, in the moment.
One week on, a little weary and more than a touch weathered, we walked back into Ben’s gallery. He immediately rose from his chair, smiled, and without hesitation, asked, “So, how was it?”
Mark and Ebony walked our South and West Cornwall CSW4 itinerary followed by the first two days of our CSL5 itinerary. At 630 miles the South West Coast Path is England’s longest waymarked long-distance footpath and National Trail. Walking anti-clockwise we’ve broken it into five sections, and these too break down into bite size chunks giving you ten incredible holidays in total to choose from. To learn more and book your adventure on the South West Coast Path simply email us [email protected] or call us on 017687 72335 to speak with one of our walking holiday experts.