Lynne’s A-Z of the Coast to Coast: Dales and Moors
By Lynne Batey
Having completed the Lakes and Mountains section of Wainwright’s Coast to Coast ourselves – taking it in day and weekend walks over the past year – Steven and I were delighted to have the chance to finish this iconic route by tackling the Dales and Moors section in one go as my eight day walking familiarisation trip. The first half from St Bees to Kirkby Stephen was a mix of beautiful weather and ‘cherry-picking’ the best days to walk – fair weather walkers at heart! But this time, we were ready to do what seasoned walkers do; take on the elements, rain or shine.
We packed accordingly and set off, bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, from Kirkby Stephen. The walk was everything we hoped for; stunning, varied, challenging enough, and rewarding in more ways than we could count. The people we met – hosts, locals, and fellow walkers – added an extra layer of joy to the experience, creating memories we’ll cherish forever.
We loved every single day of this route, if time had allowed, we would have happily walked the entire path in one go. While this wasn’t possible, completing the first half in stages and the second in one go gave us a wonderful and memorable adventure.
Every detail about this route has been written about many times before, and for that, we have mainly one man to thank – Alfred Wainwright, whose 1973 creation still remains the most popular Coast to Coast route. Others may exist, but Wainwright’s is by far the most popular. Here are the reasons I discovered why …
A – Alfred Wainwright: The celebrated fell walker and guidebook writer. He didn’t just create a route; he created an experience, one footstep at a time.
B – Beggars Bridge, Glaisdale: A bridge with a love story that’s as charming as the scenery. Beggar’s Bridge was built by Thomas Ferris, who, as a poor young man, fell in love with a wealthy landowner’s daughter. Unable to cross the river to say goodbye before leaving to seek his fortune, he vowed to build a bridge if he returned successful. Years later, after making his wealth, he kept his promise, married his love, and built the bridge, which now symbolises love and perseverance.
C – Clothes: Packing for all four seasons in one day is a skill – waterproofs, sun hats, and thermals, all in one bag! Yorkshire weather keeps you on your toes.
D – Dinner: Yorkshire portions, enough to feed a small army. We had to learn fast here – pace yourself or be prepared to roll down the hill into Robin Hood’s Bay.
E – Eggs: “How do you like your eggs in the morning?” Well, apparently all ways. Scrambled, fried, poached, served with smoked salmon or even (my favourite) on smashed chilli avocado and even a boiled one in our packed lunch one day!
F – Fat Betty: Fat Betty (the one on the left) is a mysterious white cross on the North York Moors that serves as both a marker for walkers and a symbol of the ancient traditions of the moors. Standing weathered and stout, it’s one of the more unusual sights along the Coast to Coast route, tucked away between Blakey Ridge and Rosedale. Walkers are often told to leave an offering at Fat Betty, usually food or coins, in exchange for good luck or fair weather on the journey. You’ll find that people often leave sweets, biscuits, or a small coin on the stone. Some even take a small item in exchange, continuing the curious sharing ritual. There are many stories and legends surrounding Fat Betty. Some say she was once a nun, turned to stone as a result of an ancient curse, while others claim she was part of an old boundary marker system. Two soggy murray mints had been left there. Not feeling particularly superstitious I left them for someone else. Perhaps if I had exchanged them for some of our sweets, or even left a coin or two, the weather might’ve been kinder? I suspect not!
G – Grouse: With their loud and comical cackle, it’s hard to decide if they’re laughing at you or encouraging you, especially on the uphill pulls. Either way, they’re unforgettable.
H – Heather: Walking through endless purple moorland made us feel like we’d stepped into a picture postcard. Magical stuff!
I – Invigorating: Walking day after day in the fresh Yorkshire air we felt truly energised, both physically and mentally. We’d expected to tire as the week went on, but to the contrary, we actually walked ourselves into fitness as we progressed along the trail. So much so, at the end, we joked we could turn round and do it all again.
J – Journey: Not just from A to B, but the real kind – one with fellow walkers, shared laughs, Compeed plasters and moments that stay with you long after the boots are off.
K – Knowledge: I knew very little about this area, so therefore welcomed the opportunity to learn more about the natural landscapes encountered on the Dales and Moors stretch of the Coast to Coast path.
L – Lunch Break: Eating lunch either with a view or in some shelter from the elements! We would find it hard to choose the best one. Black Grouse Hut between Kirkby Stephen and Keld was like a gift. To be able to shelter somewhere warm and dry. Carlton Bank was certainly best for the chance to sit and admire the stunning scenery and were most impressed with the honestly table in St Edmunds Church in Marske between Reeth and Richmond with a perfect peaceful bench in the churchyard.
M – Moorland: Mysterious and moody, the moors are both a challenge and a gift. Whether shrouded in mist or glowing in sunlight, they’re unforgettable.
N – New Friends: There’s a special camaraderie between people sharing the same experience, weather, and the endless trail stories. We made good friends from all over the world, all who shared the love for walking. It’s amazing how a shared journey and a mutual love for flapjack can turn strangers into friends faster than you can say, “Are you doing the whole route?”
O – Old School Hymns: For some reason, long walks bring out the inner hymn singer in me. Cue ‘Jerusalem’ at the top of every hill! Or ‘One more step along the world we go!’ Nothing like a rousing chorus to push you up the hills!
P – Pace: Mostly we matched stride for stride especially on the superb paved sections. On the steep climbs however, especially the calf popping climb out of Grosmont Village, where I was slightly left behind, I must to confess to wishing a minor injury upon Steven, just to slow him down a little. Slightly less Christian than the hymn singing I know!
Q – Quiet: The quiet stretches gave us time to think, laugh, and enjoy the simple pleasure of each other’s company. This is valuable time we rarely have, the simple act of clearing your mind is good for the soul. We discovered that silence can be golden – even after 25 years of marriage!
R – Route: Quite honestly much easier than the first half (lakes section) of the Coast to Coast. It is varied enough to keep it interesting, but on the whole I would say the paths are great, mainly well defined tracks and country lanes, although sections, especially the first couple of days, are muddy and wet. Although after Reeth I can say conditions were super and no mud. East of England is so much drier and it is so evident in the state of the ground.
S – Socks: The unsung heroes of the hike. Get the right pair, and it’s bliss, get the wrong pair, and it’s blisters!
T – Tired: Every night we headed to bed, exhausted in the best way possible, never later than 9pm! Nothing like the satisfaction of good, honest fatigue. We slept so well every single night, perhaps the well-deserved wine with dinner played a part in that too.
U – Underestimated the Yorkshire Feeders: We planned for a walking appetite, but we didn’t plan for Yorkshire portions. Walk more, eat more!
V – Variety of Accommodation: From tiny B&Bs to grand hotels, each place was unique. No two nights the same – just like every day of the walk itself. The only constant? Fantastic breakfasts.
W – Weather: We experienced all four seasons in one day, multiple times. Rain, wind, sun – it kept us on our toes! I have to say how amazingly accurate the met office app was, always good to check ahead of your day.
X – Extra Days: Time permitting, I would recommend taking time off the trail to enjoy some of the lovely locations you pass through. For example, in Richmond, why not go for a gentle stroll along the River Swale, visit the impressive Richmond Castle, or simply enjoy the town’s shops and cafes.
Y – Yorkshire: There’s something about the moors, the dales, and the coast that make you fall in love with Yorkshire. Not forgetting the Yorkshire Tea and Yorkshire puddings too!
Z – Ze End: (Tenuous I know, I was struggling here). The finish line in Robin Hood’s Bay, brought with it a sense of accomplishment, relief and joy, as well as a little sadness that it was over—until the next adventure, of course. All that was left to do was plop our pebble carried all the way from the Irish Sea into the North Sea and now it was perfect time for a pint and a well-deserved rest!
If Lynne has inspired you to walk some of, or indeed all of the Coast to Coast and you’d like to know more, email us [email protected] or call us on 017687 72335 to speak with one of our walking holiday experts. As well as the whole Coast to Coast Path, we offer the western Lakes and Mountains, and the eastern Dales and Moors as separate holidays. Both are well worth undertaking in their own right, or you can choose to do half the route now and the other half later.