The Two Moors Way: Devon’s Coast to Coast Trail
By Mark Wright
When we talk about walking on the South West Peninsula I think it’s fair to say our thoughts immediately turn to the South West Coast Path, and understandably so, the 630 mile route from Minehead in North Devon round to Poole in Dorset features some of the finest coastal walking in Europe. However there are many other great trails in this beautiful part of the country and one of those is the Two Moors Way, and it just happens to be the latest addition to our list of forty-five routes throughout the UK, Ireland and the Channel Islands.
The Route
Today the Two Moors Way stretches 117 miles from Wembury on the South Devon coast to Lynmouth on the North Devon coast. However the origins of this incredible route date back to 1976 when it was first established as a long-distance trail from Ivybridge to Lynmouth. The brainchild of countryside ranger Joe Turner the route was envisioned as a way to traverse Devon’s most stunning and remote moorlands, linking the two national parks through quiet villages and rural farmland. In 2005 the trail was extended southward to Wembury by incorporating the Erme-Plym Trail. This addition, blending the original Two Moors Way with the new coastal stretch, created a 117 mile route that became known as the Devon Coast to Coast Trail, offering walkers an inspiring journey across the entire county. Despite Devon’s Coast to Coast being almost twenty years old now, Two Moors Way has remained the favoured name for the full Coast to Coast journey.
Often described as one of England’s last true wildernesses Dartmoor is a vast expanse of open moorland marked by rugged tors, ancient woodlands, and fascinating archaeological sites. As the route traces its way through Dartmoor’s southern reaches you are rewarded with breathtaking views, secluded paths, and atmospheric stretches where at times wild ponies and sheep are your only companions. Dartmoor is as inspiring as it is demanding, with rapidly changing weather testing both your resilience and your navigational skills. Keep that compass close at hand!
Between Dartmoor and Exmoor the Two Moors Way weaves its way through the seldom-explored Mid Devon heartland. A landscape of tranquil farmland, scattered woodlands, and timeless villages. This central section of the trail offers a gentle contrast to the wilderness of the moors, and provides a peaceful few days to soak up the rural charm of Devon’s countryside.
Next comes the untamed landscape of Exmoor. Approaching its southern slopes, you’ll notice the scenery change once more, with steep, wooded valleys, expansive open moors, and rivers that wind their way toward the coast. The journey’s final stretch brings you to Lynmouth where North Devon’s dramatic coastline rewards you with stunning views and a well-earned sense of accomplishment.
Navigating the Trail
The Erme-Plym extension from Wembury to Ivybridge is a gentle, unchallenging landscape following good footpaths and bridleways through rolling fields and woodlands, and is comprehensively waymarked. Similarly, between the moors, in Mid Devon, the going is easy with a patchwork of small fields, narrow hedged lanes and farm tracks, primarily following designated rights of way.
The moors however are a different matter, particularly in poor weather. For your safety, and to gain the greatest enjoyment from your walk, it is crucial that you are competent using a map and compass, and that you adhere to the advice in your guidebook.
Without wanting to paint too damp a picture, it would be remiss of me not to emphasise that Dartmoor is a rugged landscape and it is frequently cloaked in mist and lashed by wind and rain. Furthermore this high rainfall, combined with thin acidic soil, has led to the formation of vast peatlands over the centuries, and the way through is occasionally pathless. Exmoor’s moorland plateau is smoother and more rounded in comparison with Dartmoor’s harsh granite, however in addition to open common you’ll encounter riverside paths, which can prove uneven and wet in places. Nevertheless, if approached in a positive spirit and with good boots and reliable waterproofs, walking Dartmoor and Exmoor will prove thoroughly enjoyable and massively rewarding.
The highest point on the Two Moors Way is Broad Burrow at Hameldown on Dartmoor, which reaches an elevation of 532 meters (1,745 feet), so not too high at all really. The highest point of the Exmoor section is Dure Down, part of The Chains plateau, which reaches a slightly lower elevation of 480 metres (1,572 feet).
Signage is much less reliable on the moorland sections, so be sure to follow the directions in your guidebook carefully through any unmarked stretches. Helpfully specific rights of way are clearly marked on maps, and the Ordnance Survey ones we supply come with a digital version which you can download to your smartphone or tablet.
Food and Drink
Although some of the locations along the trail are quite remote, often with only one or two places to eat in the evening, the local cuisine served up at the traditional inns is sure to delight. Sharing tales with fellow walkers is an equally enjoyable experience.
Lunches on the Two Moors Way require careful consideration. In the absence of pre booked packed lunches, or making arrangements with your host on arrival, it is important you purchase enough food and drink for the day before setting off, as it is highly unlikely there will be refreshment stops along the route. Many walkers on remote trails such as the Two Moors Way will bring with them in their overnight luggage a supply of cereal bars or energy bars, as well as nuts and dried fruit as a backup.
Three Great Holidays
We offer three great holidays on the Two Moors Way. Firstly we have the full route, as described above, a fairly challenging 117 mile coast to coast journey from Wembury to Lynmouth in a choice of 8, 10 or 12 days, where you will experience wild and windswept Dartmoor, the rural charm of pastoral Mid Devon, and the dramatic landscape of Exmoor all rolled into one magnificent adventure.
For those with a little less time or perhaps feel 117 miles is too much of an ask in one go, we also cover the route with two shorter holidays. The first is a 66 mile Dartmoor walk from Wembury on the South Devon coast to Morchard Road in Mid Devon in a choice of 4, 5 or 6 days, where you’ll enjoy rolling fields and wooded valleys along the Erme-Plym Trail, then traverse the rugged expanse of Dartmoor, before ending your journey in the picturesque Mid Devon heartland.
Finally, we have a 51 mile Exmoor walk from Morchard Road to Lynmouth on the North Devon coast in a choice of 5 or 6 days, savouring the soft, flowing landscape of the Mid Devon countryside, before crossing Exmoor, where an atmospheric journey culminates in far-reaching views over the stunning North Devon coastline.
Why We Think You Should Walk the Two Moors Way
Walking the Two Moors Way offers an incredible opportunity to explore the stunning variety of landscapes that make Devon such a unique and beautiful county. This remarkable trail takes you from coast to coast, across rugged moorland, through peaceful river valleys, and over rolling countryside. Along the way, you’ll be immersed in the tranquil beauty of the South Hams, with its charming villages and sweeping fields. As you venture deeper into Dartmoor National Park, the vast, wild expanses of open moorland unfold before you, dotted with iconic granite tors and home to Dartmoor ponies, Highland cattle, roe deer and a diverse array of birdlife. The flora and fauna that flourish here are a testament to the richness of the South West Peninsula.
Mid Devon offers a serene contrast to the moors with its idyllic rural countryside, where quiet woodlands and sleepy hamlets provide moments of peacefulness. The route also takes you through picturesque river valleys, such as those of the Barle and Dart, where wildlife thrives in tranquil surroundings. Crossing Exmoor National Park is enthralling, with its dramatic hills offering breathtaking views that stretch all the way to the North Devon coastline.
History and nature go hand in hand on this journey, with stops at ancient sites such as Grimspound, Cow Castle, and the iconic Tarr Steps. Along the way, you’ll have the chance to enjoy delicious local food in rustic, characterful pubs and restaurants, making the journey not only a visual feast but a culinary one, too.
In summary, the Two Moors Way is a journey of discovery – whether it’s the majestic landscapes, rich history, or the peace and quiet of Devon’s hidden corners, each step brings something new and unforgettable.
We’re in no doubt the Two Moors Way is going to be a very popular choice, and most of you will be aware by now that booking early not only gets you the best chance of walking your favourite route, but it also gives us the best chance of securing our first choice accommodation for you. To book your Two Moors Way adventure you can fill in our online form, email us at [email protected] or simply give us a call on on 017687 72335 to speak with one of our walking holiday experts.